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Gravy: Daily Summaries Delivered
by Southern Foodways Alliance
Gravy shares stories of the changing American South through the foods we eat. Gravy showcases a South that is constantly evolving, accommodating new immigrants, adopting new traditions, and lovingly maintaining old ones. It uses food as a means to explore all of that, to dig into lesser-known corners of the region, complicate stereotypes, document new dynamics, and give voice to the unsung folk who grow, cook, and serve our daily meals.
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- 3 weeks ago22 min
A Taste of Mexico City In Memphis
In “A Taste of Mexico City In Memphis,” Gravy reporter Mackenzie Martin visits Las Tortugas Deli Mexicana, a Memphis restaurant run by a father and son duo: Jonathan and José “Pepe”Magallanes. Every day at Las Tortugas starts the same way: at the markets. According to Pepe, he and Jonathan go daily to source the produce and proteins they need for the two locations. The idea is to replicate the kind of hyper-fresh cuisine that Pepe grew up eating in Mexico City taquerias and torterias as a kid in the 1940s and ‘50s. Another nod to Mexico City is the turtle-themed artwork on the walls. In Pepe’s neighborhood, El Pedregal, the bread was hollowed out more than usual for its torta sandwiches, so that it resembled the shell of a turtle. Pepe grew up calling sandwiches in Pedregal “tortugas,” which translates to turtle in Spanish. Today, you can taste the attention to flavor in the salsa, agua frescas, and delicious tacos and torta sandwiches chock-full of ripe avocado, fresh jalapeños, beans, queso fresco, al pastor, jumbo sea scallops, Gulf shrimp, filet mignon, and more. Because of the premium ingredients, it’s hard to get out of Las Tortugas without spending at least $25, which is pricier than other Mexican restaurants in the area. But chef Pati Jinich says there’s a movement to redefine casual Mexican cuisine, which is often expected to be cheaper than casual Italian food, even if the dishes are made with similar high-quality ingredients. Be warned, though, alongside every sandwich come strong opinions. “Attention to our guests that come from California, Texas, and border states with Mexico. Please spare us where you are coming from, indicating that you know about Mexican food,” reads a sternly worded sign near the cash register. “Our restaurant is a special place that is setting the record straight about what is truly upscale, fresh, classic Mexican cuisine with absolutely no influence of the American way of cooking. So do not try and teach us any lessons, but rather sit down and enjoy.” What this means in practice is that Las Tortugas doesn’t sell heavy enchiladas, burritos, fajitas, nachos, flour tortillas, sour cream, taco salads, cheese dip, or other dishes associated with “Tex-Mex” or “Cal Mex”. “It's tongue-in-cheek,” admits Jonathan. “It just sort of, I think, speaks to the passion that we have for doing something different.” Jinich, who also grew up in Mexico City, says it’s hard to pinpoint what “authentic” Mexico City cuisine is because it’s a melting point of all different styles of regional Mexican cuisine. (Her new cookbook, “Foods of La Frontera: Recipes and New Taste Frontiers from Both Sides of the Border,” digs into the nuance of these.) But Jinich appreciates what the family is trying to do. “There’s this tug and pull between traditional and modern. And I think it's all a win-win because then that means that there's all different kinds of regional variations,” she says. “There's something really beautiful in passing on something that has that taste that you recognize.” Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices
- Sep 30, 202626 min
Cultivating Korean Greens in North Texas
In “Cultivating Korean Greens in North Texas,” Gravy reporter Elizabeth Myong explores how Korean American communities are gardening in North Texas. She reflects on her upbringing in the Richardson suburbs, where she grew up eating Korean herbs and plants from her family’s backyard. Those fresh greens were made into dishes with “son-mat,” which directly translates to “hand taste.” It’s the flavor of seasoned hands, usually of a mother or grandmother, making something especially for you. It’s the flavor of love and care mixed with earthen, locally-grown staples like kkaenip (sesame leaves), buchu (Korean garlic chives), and gochu (chili peppers). In recent years, this intimate taste has been overshadowed by flashier, bolder flavors that have become popular with the commercialization of Korean food. But across North Texas, Myong shares the homemade food being made from backyard gardens and kitchens. Heangjin Park is an assistant professor at the University of Wisconsin Madison who studies Korean diasporic communities and food. He explains that Korean gardening creates a sense of belonging. “You are being transplanted and rooted in [this] new place. I think that there's a symbolic or metaphorical dimension of Korean gardening.” In the summer’s sweltering Texas heat, Myong’s mother Jan annually makes kkaenip-jangajji, pickled sesame leaves, with fresh leaves plucked from her garden. In the suburb of Carrollton, couple Sofia Kwak and Kenneth Jung grow their own bountiful garden filled with Korean lettuce, eggplant, bitter melon, zucchini, minari, jeok gat (Korean red mustard greens) and ah oh (cluster mallow.) In Irving, Duke Dukbong Yoon uses a homi, a traditional Korean hand plow, to harvest jujubes, mugwort, Korean peppers, corn and pumpkins. Each month, Kwak and Jung join a Korean gardening club Dal-Nongbu, Dallas City Farmers, to talk about their gardens and trade tips, produce, and seeds. It’s been a way for members to build community and bond over their shared love of gardening Korean herbs and veggies. North Texas boasts the largest Korean population in Texas and the ninth largest in the country. The region’s Korean dining scene has exploded over the decades along with a hunger for Korean home cooking. North Texas’ Korean food scene may not be as commercially visible as New York, L.A. or even Atlanta, but its rich history and quality food make it an important landmark of Korean diasporic communities in the South. Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices
- Sep 16, 202621 min
Brisket, Kugel, and Community in Birmingham
In “Brisket, Kugel, and Community in Birmingham,” Gravy reporter Olivia Ware Terenzio visits Birmingham, Alabama’s Levite Jewish Community Center (“The J”) for the Jewish Food and Culture Fest, a celebration of kugel and cabbage rolls for Jews and non-Jews alike. This episode explores what role the festival plays in a state where less than half of one percent of the population is Jewish—and what we really mean when we talk about Jewish Food. The festival started more than two decades ago, which is impressive, considering that there are only about 6,300 Jews in the Birmingham metro area of 1.1 million. It’s been sustained by a loyal group of Jewish volunteers and widely supported by the non-Jewish population. A closer look at the kitchen, where volunteer cooks prepare hamantashen ahead of the festival, proves that this is all more complicated than a typical food festival. Desserts are made with oil, not butter, to avoid dairy. The counters where the volunteers are working are marked with red duct tape, and one half of the kitchen is blocked off with a plastic sheet. The tape and plastic are part of an effort to keep the festival entirely kosher, as is the oversight of a kosher supervisor: Rabbi Yossi Friedman. He reviews all the food bought for the festival to ensure that even people who are very careful about keeping kosher can participate. In Alabama, where options for kosher dining are next to zero, this is especially important. At the same time, many of the festival’s attendees—and most of the J’s dues-paying members—aren’t Jewish. For many of them, the festival offers a rare opportunity to experience Jewish food that can’t be found in restaurants here. As Margaret Norman, a scholar of American Jewish history and Southern Jewish foodways, explains, many people don’t come into regular contact with Jewish culture or Jewish people in Alabama. In this episode, Rabbi Friedman explains how kosher certification works and why it matters in an increasingly complicated food system. Isa Dorsky, one of the festival’s lead cooks and a former Board President at The J, leads volunteer cooks as they prepare 400 hamantashen. Finally, Norman tells of Birmingham’s evolving Jewish population and explores a food festival’s potential to bridge differences between neighbors. Reporter Olivia Ware Terenzio is a writer, editor, and arts and culture administrator working in the American South. She is the Director of Programs for Project Threadways and the Podcast Editor here at the Southern Foodways Alliance. She holds an M.A. in Southern Studies from the University of Mississippi. Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices
- Sep 2, 202629 min
Stone-Milled Flour: Separating the Wheat from the Chaff
In Texas and Louisiana, chefs, millers, and home bakers are increasingly turning to using whole-grain, stone-milled flour in their breads, cakes, and pastries. These flours are milled with the ancient process of stone milling: flour is produced by crushing the whole kernel of the wheat grain between enormous stones, versus the more modern process of roller milling, which produces the finely grained, snow-white flour most of us are accustomed to. Stone-ground flour is coarser and more nutrient dense, and can also be more difficult to source, use, and store thanconventional flour. Despite that, these flours are no longer the sole purview of professional pastry chefs and artisan bread bakers. A new group of consumers are turning to organic, stone ground, and so-called heritage or ancient strains of wheat: followers of the Make America Healthy Again (MAHA) movement. These home bakers are increasingly convinced that modern, roller-milled wheat is making them sick, resulting in diagnoses as broad as chronic inflammation, IBS, and non-Celiac gluten intolerance. As a baker and recipe developer, Bronwen Wyatt wanted to get to the bottom of the flour debate, which reflects a growing anxiety around the safety of American food. She speaks to bakers Pamela Thibodeaux of Barton Springs Mill in Dripping Springs, Texas and Keira Watt of Bellegarde Bakery in New Orleans to learn why they choose to use stone milled flour, and what their customers are communicating to them about their flour choices. She also turns to scientistsDr. Jessica Biesiekierski, an expert in non-celiac gluten intolerance, and Dr. Aaron Fox, who specializes in organic and sustainable agriculture, to learn more about whether our fears aroundwheat mean we need to change our shopping and baking behaviors. Do we need to have an all-or-nothing approach to conventional flour, or can all the South’s many diverse, long-standing baking traditions continue to co-exist? Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices
- Aug 19, 202622 min
There’s No Business Like Hansen’s Sno Bliz-ness
In “There’s No Business Like Hansen’s Sno Bliz-ness,” Gravy reporter Eve Troeh takes us to New Orleans, home of the sno-ball. In the South you need strategies to beat the summer heat, and ice plays a big role. Street vendors used to shave big blocks of ice by hand and add flavored syrup—a treat that became known as a sno-ball in the Big Easy. In the late 1930s, a local man, Ernest Hansen, invented a machine that changed the tradition. Sharp blades, encased in metal, turned chunks of ice into the most fluffy, fine “snow,” and he eventually patented this creation. While he kept his day job in New Orleans’ manufacturing industry, Ernest’s wife Mary ran with her husband’s invention. She set up shop at home and eventually moved to a brick-and-mortar, dishing up fresh “snow” and dousing them with signature flavored syrups that she made by hand. They called their place Hansen’s Sno-Bliz. Remarkably, Ernest’s hand-built machines are still in use today, as are many of Mary’s syrup recipes, and the business continues to cool off customers with some “air-conditioning for your tummy.” Hansen’s Sno-Bliz is now in its 86th year, with Ernest and Mary’s granddaughter, Ashley Hansen, at the helm. Ashley’s was a long and loving journey to take on the business. She learned alongside her grandparents day by day. In a city that practically worships tradition, she honors her family and her customers by maintaining not just the original 1930s ice-shaving mechanics and syrup recipes, but also by cultivating the warm hospitality her grandparents always extended to anyone who entered. The cinder block corner shop on New Orleans’ Tchoupitoulas Street looks humble, but you’ll always find a line of customers stretching outside around the corner. The James Beard Foundation even bestowed Hansen’s with its prestigious title of American Classic. New Orleanians from every corner of the city—and visitors from all around the world—eagerly line up to experience Hansen’s, and form an of-the-moment community with each other as they choose their flavors and chat. In this cool edition of Gravy, Ashley Hansen shares the history, innovation, and spirit of her family’s institution, always with Hansen’s Sno-Bliz motto in mind: “There are no shortcuts to quality.” Eve Troeh is a seasoned podcast producer and award-winning journalist based in Los Angeles. She's also a proud former New Orleanian, and a veteran of the line at Hansen's. Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices
- Aug 5, 202625 min
The Piggly Wiggly Way: A Memphis Story
In "The Piggly Wiggly Way: A Memphis Story, "Gravy reporter Mackenzie Martin visits the Pink Palace Museum in Memphis to understand how Piggly Wiggly changed grocery shopping forever. Meal kits. Instacart. Door Dash. At the turn of the 20th century, we didn’t have all of these options. You mostly showed up at a counter and told a clerk what you wanted, and they’d gather all the necessary items and package them up for you. And there wasn’t much in the way of competing brands, either. Then everything started to change in a big way 110 years ago this year, when the most influential self-service grocery store opened in Memphis, Tennessee. Founder Clarence Saunders called it “The Piggly Wiggly Self-Serving System,” and he had several patents for everything: the layout, the price tag system, and even the way he incorporated refrigeration. “You could go in and do your own shopping, and all you needed was one stocker and one clerk,” says Steve Masler, the former curator of exhibits at the Pink Palace Museum. It’s unknown why Saunders named the chain what he did, but the mystery intrigued people. In September 1916, he ran one of the first of many bizarre newspaper ads to announce its opening: “The Piggly Wiggly will establish a new fashion,” it read. “Don’t come, though, unless you mean business and want to buy something.” The idea of choosing your own items at a grocery store seems commonplace now, but it was revolutionary at the time. Suddenly, after years of going to a general store and handing a list to a friendly clerk, customers were expected to wander the aisles on their own and carry items in a wooden shopping basket. Historian Lisa C. Tolbert, author of Beyond Piggly Wiggly: Inventing the American Self-Service Store, says one of the most radical things about the design of Piggly Wiggly is that the traffic only went one direction. That forced customers to walk by and inspect every product in the store, which increased spontaneous purchases and overall sales. “It’s like a vending machine you’re walking through,” she says. In 1922, less than a decade after the opening of the first store, there were 1,200 Piggly Wiggly stores in the United States. Then more grocery store chains followed Piggly Wiggly’s lead and adopted self service models of their own, and Piggly Wiggly transitioned to the more traditional supermarket model we’re all familiar with. Today, there are just under 500 Piggly Wigglys in the U.S. They are in 17 states, partially in the Midwest, but overwhelmingly in the South. It’s an outlier in the grocery store industry in the sense that it’s managed by individual franchisees across the country and perceived as more local than other nationally known grocery store chains. It’s the kind of place where baggers often carry groceries to customers’ cars, and you can get a soda for 50 cents. “It’s the Piggly Wiggly Way,” said one employee. Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices
- Jul 22, 202626 min
Making Groceries in Louisiana
In “Making Groceries,” New Orleans-based Gravy journalist Katie Jane Fernelius travels to the frontlines of food insecurity in Louisiana—from the bustling warehouse floor of Second Harvest Food Bank in south Louisiana to a grocery aisle in rural Evangeline Parish—to examine the place of food stamps in fighting hunger. The Supplemental Nutrition Assistance Program, or SNAP, is a federal food-assistance program that helps low-income households buy groceries. It has consistently been shown to reduce food insecurity and poverty, especially among children. But SNAP has also been at the center of policy fights for decades, as legislators at both the state and federal level debate not only who should be eligible to receive benefits, but what they can spend those benefits on. While some legislators may emphasize the impact of SNAP on state and federal budgets, moms like Dafnee Chatman experience the importance of SNAP in their personal budgets, knowing the crucial role that food stamps can play in feeding her family of five. In this episode of Gravy, Fernelius follows Chatman through a grocery store as she does the math of a weekly shop on SNAP benefits. She also speaks with John Sillers and Lindsay Hendrix of the Second Harvest Food Bank of Greater New Orleans and Acadiana about how families struggling with food insecurity fill their pantries. Fernelius looks at hunger in Louisiana from a wider angle: not as a single crisis, but as a system of support, strain, and political choices that shapes how everyday families eat. *** Acknowledgements: Thank you to scholars Tracy Roof and Laurie Green for their illuminating conversations about the history of food stamps. Thank you to Second Harvest Food Bank in New Orleans and Dafnee Chatman, for their helpful, impassioned participation in this episode. Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices
- Jul 8, 202623 min
Spilling the Tea in the Mississippi Pine Belt
In “Spilling the Tea in the Mississippi Pine Belt” Gravy reporter Georgia Sparling explores the tea farms popping up in Mississippi’s Pine Belt, where the tannic soil is perfect for growing tea. While many think of strong, syrupy sweet, ice-cold tea as quintessentially Southern, the only thing truly Southern about this ubiquitous beverage is how we drink it. Almost every tea leaf we consume in the United States comes from somewhere else. Tea has been cultivated for more than 5,000 years, first in China and now in India, Nepal, Kenya, and even Argentina. Mississippi, though, seemed unlikely. The tea plant, Chinese camellia, tends to thrive in inhospitable places, such as mountains and hillsides. While the Pine Belt can certainly be inhospitable with its three-digit-degree summers, tornadoes, and dry spells, it’s a wildly different climate than where most tea is grown. The soil, however, was just right for the acid-loving plants, which are known to adapt to their circumstances. Still, much was unknown when The Great Mississippi Tea Company in Brookhaven and the Longleaf Tea Company in Laurel planted their first crops in 2011 and 2018, respectively. Tea is a long-term investment. It takes three to five years for the plants to become established and ready for harvest. After that, they can live for a century or more—that is, if they survive. Both farms experienced heavy losses during their first seasons of planting. Great Mississippi lost all four acres of their initial crop, while Longleaf lost 300 of their first 1,000 saplings. But they replanted, and today these small but mighty farms have not only taken root but they are thriving. Great Mississippi and Longleaf are finding that not only do tea plants have a taste for Mississippi soil, but Mississippians (and beyond) have a taste for the delicate and complex flavors of Southern grown tea. Georgia Sparling visits these farms and learns what it takes to grow a perfect cup of tea. Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices
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About Gravy
Gravy shares stories of the changing American South through the foods we eat. Gravy showcases a South that is constantly evolving, accommodating new immigrants, adopting new traditions, and lovingly maintaining old ones. It uses food as a means to explore all of that, to dig into lesser-known corners of the region, complicate stereotypes, document new dynamics, and give voice to the unsung folk who grow, cook, and serve our daily meals.
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