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by From my Paris kitchen
From my kitchen in Paris, talks with my favorite bakers, cookbook authors, pastry chefs, bartenders, chefs, spirits experts, along with a dose of Paris dining tips and French culinary culture. davidlebovitz.substack.com
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- 1 weeks ago56 min
A Chat with Chocolatier Michael Recchiuti
When I wrote my book, The Great Book of Chocolate, I got to meet — and learn from —some of the best chocolatiers in the world. One of them was Michael Recchiuti, co-founder and chocolatier of Recchiuti chocolates in San Francisco.At the time, artisan and bean-to-bar chocolates were emerging in the United States, and Michael was at the forefront, incorporating diverse ingredients, such as herbs, locally grown oranges and pears, Key limes, Hawaiian coffee, and French fleur de sel, into his sublime confections.On a recent visit to Paris, I invited Michael into my kitchen, along with his wife, Jacky, who is the co-founder and creative director of the company, to chat about chocolate, including discussing some of the differences between French and American chocolates. We also did a tasting of some of his favorite chocolates.Michael recounted how we met, which was when I was working on the first edition of The Great Book of Chocolate, and the (admittedly, extreme) lengths I was going to get the recipes right, and we’ve become friends ever since.At the time, I had never tasted chocolates like Michael’s before, which combined flavors and incorporated ingredients, such as chocolate-covered pears infused with Key lime juice and fleur de sel accenting smoky caramel. Michael enrobes Kona coffee ganache centers with dark chocolate, tarragon gets combined with grapefruit, and he embeds handmade bars of Mexican chocolate (a special chocolate made exclusively for him by Valrhona) with burnt caramelized almonds.Michael also uses the darkest milk chocolate I’ve seen in tablets of chocolate that raises the milk chocolate bar (so to speak), using milk chocolate that contains 54% cacao solids. In collaboration with San Francisco coffee roaster Linea, he melds finely ground organic coffee beans with white chocolate into an irresistible café au lait bar, reminiscent of a café latte.Michael has also been working with NASA and Astreas on a “luxurious functional truffle,” which astronauts will be taking into space, to keep them alert — and satisfy their chocolate cravings — while in the stratosphere. Here on earth, The New York Time’s Wirecutter team rated Michael’s chocolates, The Best Boxed Chocolates.Subscribe to my newsletter to get podcasts, videos, recipes, Paris dining tips, and more, sent right to your Inbox!Newsletter Subscriber Bonus!If you’d like to try some of Michael Recchiuti’s chocolates, he’s provided a promo code PARISKITCHEN15 that will give you 15% off your purchase in his online shop, which is also valid in the Ferry Building store in San Francisco. Be sure to use that code when ordering. (Note: They can only ship to U.S. addresses. The code is valid until December 31, 2026.)I hope you enjoy my podcast chat (and chocolate tasting) with Michael and Jacky Recchiuti as much as I did! - David This is a public episode. If you'd like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit davidlebovitz.substack.com/subscribe
- 2 weeks ago15 min
Paris Market Shopping with David Lebovitz & Romain
It’s Saturday morning and it’s a big day in France with strikes and major demonstrations nationwide. But everyone has to eat, so we hit the Marché d’Aligre in our neighborhood, to gather some things for the weekend. My weekend projects are Lamb tagine, Green curry, and Riz au lait (rice pudding) from my book, Ready for Dessert, for a recipe that I’ll be sharing here in the newsletter shortly. The lamb tagine is from my book, My Paris Kitchen and the North African butcher was so happy that I was making a tagine, he gave me a bouquet of fresh mint to make tea with, to drink afterwards.We also picked up persimmons, avocados, speck, shallots, Japanese eggplant, and Romain’s favorite cheese! (Well, one of them 😄 …)-DavidTo receive new posts, videos, recipe, and more, subscribe here… This is a public episode. If you'd like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit davidlebovitz.substack.com/subscribe
- Aug 12, 20267 min
Tahini, Halvah, and Coffee Brownies
I was thrilled when Sami Tamimi told me he was coming to Paris. Sami recently released his third book, Boustany: A celebration of vegetables from my Palestine, so I invited him into my kitchen to make a recipe from it with me. And the weather was so nice, we decided to prepare it outside.Sami is the co-founder of the Ottolenghi restaurants and delis, and the author of Falastin, one of my favorite cookbooks, which explores his Palestinian heritage through stories and recipes from his homeland. Boustany focuses ore squarely on the vegetable dishes of Palestine. Sami’s book features a bounty of recipes that focus on vegetables, such as salads like the Fridge-raid fattoush, and there are beautifully verdant Gazan fava bean falafels. I’ve never made falafels, but his recipe and the gorgeous photo that accompanies it make me want to. Other recipes that I’ve bookmarked are the spicy Shatta condiment, Bulghur wheat dumplings & lentil soup, and Ouzi phyllo parcels, which are individual dishes filled with rice, orzo, vegetables, nuts, and spices. Where does chocolate fit in? Well, like tomatoes and squash (which are lavishly featured in the book), chocolate is also technically a fruit. And besides, who doesn’t love chocolate? Since I’ve been in the chocolate mode, thanks to The Great Book of Chocolate coming out, I was glad Sami was up for doing some baking and showed up ready to make his Tahini, Halvah, and Coffee Brownies.Subscribe to my newsletter and get videos, recipes, Paris tips, and more, sent right to your Inbox!Pan-baked tahini, halva & coffee brownie(Qahwa w Halaweh brownie)Reprinted with permission from Boustany: A Celebration of Vegetables from my Palestine by Sami Tamimi, copyright © 2025. Published by Ten Speed Press, an imprint of Penguin Random HouseServes 6“Imagine yourself sitting in one of many coffee shops dotted around the souk in Jerusalem’s old city, having a piece of chocolate and a strong, sweet Arabic cardamom coffee. One mouthful of this dessert can almost definitely transport you there. It’s a dessert meant for sharing, to be spooned straight from the pan. A great, easy, chewy and fudgy brownie which can be ready in under 20 minutes. It hits all the right spots for chocolate lovers like me.”“This is the recipe exactly as it appears in Boustany. If you have watched me make these, you will know I improvise. I add more coffee if the batch I have is weaker, that sort of thing. The recipe below is the version I trust, so start there and make it yours.” - Sami TamimiRounded ½ cup / 150g tahini paste½ cup / 120ml lukewarm waterHeaping ½ cup | 3% oz / 110g granulated sugar2 large eggs½ cup / 20g unsweetened cocoa powder1 tbsp instant espresso coffee¼ cup / 1 oz / 30g all-purpose flour½ tsp ground cardamom½ tsp ground cloves½ tsp baking powdersalt1½ oz / 40g dark chocolate chips or chocolate roughly chopped into ¼ inch | ½ cm pieces (70% cocoa solids) (½ cup chopped)For the toppings1½ tbsp sesame seeds1½ oz / 40g dark chocolate chips or chocolate roughly chopped into ¼ inch | ½ cm pieces (70% cocoa solids) (½ cup chopped)⅓ cup | 70g plain or vanilla halva, broken into chunksvanilla ice creamPreheat the oven to 375°F. Grease a 8-inch | 22cm square baking pan or dish with sunflower oil and set aside.Put the tahini and water into the bowl of a stand mixer, with the paddle attachment in place, and mix on medium-high speed for 2 minutes, until pale and smooth. Reduce to low speed, add the sugar, then the eggs, one at a time, and mix for a further 2 minutes.Sift all the dry ingredients, using a fine sieve, and add them to the tahini mixture, along with aheaping ¼ teaspoon of salt and the chocolate. Mix for a minute more. Pour the batter into the prepared pan.Sprinkle the top with the sesame seeds and chocolate and dot with the halva. Bake for 10-12 minutes, until the edges are set and the center is not runny (it needs to be slightly wet). Set aside for 10 minutes before serving.Serve with vanilla ice cream.T
- Aug 6, 20266 min
Making a French 75 Cocktail
A highlight of writing Drinking French was getting to meet, and highlight, some of my favorite creative people in Paris, and in France, who are part of the cocktail scene, which has rapidly expanded over the years, turning Paris into one of the world’s most exciting cocktail destinations. Franck was one of the heroes in Drinking French, and as you can see in the video, there are more pictures of him in my book…than of me.After working in an art gallery in Paris, Franck went on to work at the highly celebrated restaurant, Le Châteaubriand, where chef Inaki Aizpitarte was invigorating, and shaking up, the world of French cuisine. Franck saw how the world of cocktails was changing outside of France, and decided to delve into cocktails as well, creating cocktails that leaned into French spirits and ingredients.Subscribe to my newsletter to get videos, recipes, Paris tips, and more, sent right to your Inbox!In his book, art, film, and Franck’s distinctive style intersect with his expertly made cocktails, which are deceptively simple. Most are careful revisions of classics such as the Tunnel, a reimagined Negroni served in a coupe glass. And his Yellow cocktail is a masterful mixture of Yellow Chartreuse, gin, lemon juice, and Suze gentian liqueur. (It’s one of my top three favorite cocktails of all time.)What began as an extraordinarily charming (twenty-seat!) café tucked into a magnificent Hector Guimard Art Deco building, Cravan has extended to a four-story building in the heart of the Saint-Germain-des-Prés, where Franck invited me to stop by for a French 75 on a warm summer afternoon. It was cool perfection in a glass. À santé! French 75Adapted from Cravan: Cocktails and More, Recipes from ParisOne cocktailTo make his interpretation of the French 75, Franck infuses London dry gin with agastache, known in English as dried anise hyssop. I’ve included the recipe for the infusion and the simple syrup after the cocktail recipe. 1 ounce (30ml) anise hyssop-infused London dry gin1/2 ounce (15ml) simple syrup1/2 ounce (15ml) freshly squeezed lemon juice1 dash of absintheLemon twistBrut (dry) champagneCombine the gin, simple syrup, lemon juice, absinthe, and lemon twist in a cocktail shaker. Fill three-quarters full with ice. Cover and shake vigorously for two seconds. Double strain the mixture into a chilled coupe glass. Top with champagne and serve.-To make the anise hyssop-infused gin, mix 1 3/4 teaspoons (5g) dried anise hyssop flowers with 24 ounces (700g) London dry gin. Cover, shake gently, and refrigerate for 24 hours. Strain, then filter the gin through a premoistened paper filter, such as a coffee filter. Store refrigerated.Dried anise hyssop, which is different than anise, can be found at herbalists and well-stocked natural food stores. A few places to get it online: Reverie Farm, The Herb Loft, and Etsy. I’ve not tried the cocktail without the infused gin but you could give it a go with uninfused London dry gin.-To make the simple syrup, heat 3 ounces (90g) sugar with 3 ounces (90g) water over low heat, stirring until the sugar is dissolved. Refrigerate until thoroughly chilled.-A dash of absinthe adds a little je ne sais quoi to cocktails. Pastis and anisette have a similar flavor profile and you could use one of those, sparingly. This is a public episode. If you'd like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit davidleb
- Jul 16, 202619 min
Live! Food Shopping in Paris with David & Romain
Places mentioned in the video where I shopped: Miyam, Terroirs de Avenir, Pari Local and Leonie bakery…You may have noticed I moved my Paris shopping videos here from Instagram. Subscribe to my newsletter and get them sent right to your inbox! Get the Tapenade with fig recipe here: This is a public episode. If you'd like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit davidlebovitz.substack.com/subscribe
- Jul 10, 20265 min
Affogato
It’s been hotter than heck in Paris, and we’re in the midst of our third heatwave. One way our friends in Italy beat the heat (and get their coffee fix) is to make affogato, a dish of ice cream “drowned” in espresso, with liquor sometimes added, giving it an extra kick. I met Margot Lecarpentier when writing my book, Drinking French. Margot is the owner and head bartender of Combat, one of my favorite cocktail bars in Paris, and she stopped by to make a spirited affogato for me, under the shade of our fig tree.Affogato is often made with vanilla ice cream but Margot asked me to make a batch of chocolate sorbet, which was perfect with the mix of liquors she stirred up.Subscribe to my newsletter to get recipes, videos, posts, and more, sent right to your Inbox!The amaro Margot chose, Rabarbaro Nardini, which is made from rhubarb and has a husky flavor that works beautifully with the other ingredients. There are a lot of amaros/amari out there, and ones such as Fernet-Branca, Braulio, and Dell’Etna, have their own distinctive vegetal notes. You could use one of those, or whatever is available. You can certainly change the other ingredients to your liking as well, such as swapping in amaretto for the coffee liqueur, or whiskey for the rum, although as I noted in the video, her recipe — as she made it — was truly the best affogato I’ve ever had.[btw: In the video, you’ll notice some steam drifting across the table. That’s water for heating the ice cream scoop 😄, which helps make nicely-shaped scoops.] Enjoy the affogato…and stay cool!AffogatoTwo regular servings, or one generous servingIn the video, we shared a generous scoop but you can use this recipe to make two individual portions; feel free to adjust quantities to your taste. Vanilla ice cream is the classic, but Margo thought it’d be fun to use my Chocolate sorbet, and her instincts were spot on.3/4 ounce (20ml) of each; dark rum, amaro, and coffee liqueur2 generous scoops, or several smaller scoops, of ice cream 2 shots of espressoMix together the rum, amaro and coffee liqueur in a small pitcher or measuring cup.Put a scoop, or several scoops, of ice cream in two separate ice cream dishes. Divide the liquor mixture over the two portions of ice cream and add a shot of espresso to each one. Want more chocolate? Check out my new book: The Great Book of Chocolate! This is a public episode. If you'd like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit davidlebovitz.substack.com/subscribe
- Jul 2, 202629 min
French Food Shopping in Paris
This is a public episode. If you'd like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit davidlebovitz.substack.com/subscribe
- Jun 20, 20269 min
Chocolate Mole Brownies
I met Carlos Moreno when he was delivering taco kits during the pandemic, when we all wanted to eat “out,” but were stuck eating in. Prior to that period Mexican food wasn’t well represented in Paris. (A lesser-known fact is that France tried to colonize Mexico twice in the mid-1800s.) I loved Carlos’ food and we had a few nice conversations on the sidewalk when he made his deliveries.Since then he’s gone on to open his own restaurant in Paris, Comer. As I mention in the video, you might not think you want to go to a Mexican restaurant in Paris, but I can assure you that yes, you do. It’s really, really good. His cooking is based in traditional Mexican fare with lively moles and amazing salsas, as well as a menu that changes based on the season and what’s available, which includes tostadas with raw tuna crudo, peas and citrus, tacos with pork al pastor, a mille-feuille of fresh tomatoes with housemade salsa macha, and a truly melt-in-your-mouth horneado of beef. One item on the dessert menu that’s a particular favorite are his mole brownies, which are slightly spicy, and served with a vanilla atole sauce and mezcal.I was happy that when I asked Carlos to stop by and make his famous brownies with me, he said yes. We didn’t make the vanilla atole sauce (you can find my recipe here), which he spikes with mezcal at Comer, but the brownies were delicious all on their own. I hope you enjoy them as much as we did making them! And if you’re in Paris, Comer is some of the best Mexican food you’ll ever have, anywhere. Comer96 rue d’Hauteville (10th)ParisSubscribe to my newsletter to get new posts, recipes, videos, Paris travel tips, and more, sent right to your inbox! This is a public episode. If you'd like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit davidlebovitz.substack.com/subscribe
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About David Lebovitz podcast
From my kitchen in Paris, talks with my favorite bakers, cookbook authors, pastry chefs, bartenders, chefs, spirits experts, along with a dose of Paris dining tips and French culinary culture. davidlebovitz.substack.com
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