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Cant Not: Daily Summaries Delivered
by cant not
In conversation with Vintage Collectors and Independent Fashion minds from all over the world. Exploring design, consumption, culture and the unique journeys of small business in the big world.
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- 3 weeks ago3 min
120. *Preview* César Rodríguez Salinas, Fashion & Textiles Conservator (Full Episode on Patreon and Substack)
In conversation with César Rodríguez Salinas the Textile and Fashion Conservator at Kunstmuseum Den Haag. César gets into what led him to conservation and the common misconceptions of the job of a conservator. How every garment requires a different assessment. The challenges of textile dyes and how they can define a garment's origin. How much science is involved in a garments analysis. The responsibility of a conservator and times he accepts he can not do anything to a garment. Does he see fashion as art? How being a conservator changed the way he looks at clothes today. What makes something worth preserving and so much more <3Listen to the full episode on Patreon or Substack and gain access to all other episodes as well as monthly shopping newsletters that feature a curation of independent designers and designer vintage.
- Sep 27, 20268 min
119. *Preview* Kurb, The Endless Archive Designer Search Feed (FULL EPISODE ON PATREON AND SUBSTACK)
In conversation with founders Ali and JP of KURB on giving people the tools to search for designer vintage as precisely as possible, viewing the archive resale ecosystem as an entity that is in constant flux, how vintage sellers can increase visibility of their products, the specific criteria they look for in vendors, how luxury fashion dropping the ball lately has carved a path for indie designers to come through, the divine delusion of small brands, whats changing in the archive space, niche designer subcultures, cultural gatekeeping in menswear discords, the Phia scandal, exploring ways to be more than just a search tool, launching an app and so much more <3
- Sep 15, 202610 min
118. *Preview* Molly Rogers, Costume Designer to Legacy Sequels 'And Just Like That' & 'The Devil Wears Prada 2'
In conversation with Molly Rogers, the costume designer behind And Just Like That and the The Devil Wears Prada 2. For decades, Molly worked side-by-side with Patricia Field, starting at her famous downtown New York store before helping define a generation of style across the entire Sex and the City universe. We get into what brought her to the Pat Field store in 1984, who was shopping at the store back then and the energy in the city, how the store was the answering machine of the 80s, what it was like when she first started to work in costume with Pat, if there was an expectation of designer clothes on the first season of Sex and the City, where some of the iconic pieces came from, how bringing the gate kept fashion industry to audiences around the world contributed to the shows cult status, how she approached the legacy sequals she designed, When she chooses to have something made or use vintage, the first vintage piece she bought for Prada 2, how working with designers has changed since when she started, the importance of working your way up from the mailroom to the top -- and so much more!!Full Episode on Patreon and Substack:Cant Not PatreonCant Not Substack
- Aug 30, 20261h 5m
117. 3AEM, Beyond the Archives
In conversation with Jakub and Ali of the vintage store 3AEM. We go back to their childhood stories of what brought them to fashion, the journey that brought them together to build 3AEM, Jakub's experience as a designer and decision to slow it down, the work and inspiration that goes into their vintage drops, the importance of accessible price points, their approach to mixing labels and eras, why their is a hype around archive and how its driven up the price points, is the archive space becoming a subculture? Thoughts on the designers that will be trending in vintage, their favourite pop culture moments where someone wore vintage, how vintage sits amongst contemporary fashion, current designers they are looking at, what's next for 3AEM and so much more!
- Aug 15, 202613 min
116. *Preview* Judy Berger, 20 Years in the Market (Full Episode on Patreon and Substack)
In conversation with Judy Berger of Judy's Vintage Fair, The Big Flea Market, Vintage Furniture Flea and the Botanical Market -- Judy gets into the early days of putting on markets in London and how that lead to vintage fair's touring the UK's university towns. The novelty of using Myspace to advertise her market. How vintage purists had an issue with her selling stuff from the 80s in the early 00s. The work and also the fun that goes into putting on a market. How competitive the market business became. The effects of Covid. Her appreciation for the new gen of Markets (Shoutout to Stella of Second Life!). Reviving the old Kensington Market and shining a light on the history of that market which started in the 60s in London. The stories of the old Kensington Market Vendors. What to expect at their upcoming market there for London Fashion Week and so much more <3Full episode on Patreon and Substack both subscriptions get you ad free full episodes and access to my monthly editing the doom scroll newsletter <3Get access to cant not map which pre pins vintage stores all over the world to your maps >> www.cantnotshop.com
- Jul 31, 202624 min
115. *Preview* Edward Jones, Corsetier, Couturier & Collector (Full Episode on Patreon & Substack)
In conversation with Edward Jones, of @edwardjonesatelier on how his early fascination with the understructures of victorian dress, the diaries of lady's maids and the hidden details and soft techniques of old haute couture sewing set him on his journey to becoming a couturier. Edward gets into the parts of couture sewing people may not realise and how hard it is to translate couture pieces in the digital age. We speak about what may be lost if this way of making isn’t up kept and the danger that puts couture fabric houses in. We get into his antique corset collection and his interest in preserving the corset history of the wartime and post war era. Other topics in our conversation include more on his collecting, 80s Emanuel Ungaro, his hat collection, the hats by the legendary milliner Madame Paulette, the punctuation mark of a Stephen Jones hat, whats next for the Edward Jones Atelier and so much more <3Full episode on Patreon and Substack both subscriptions get you ad free full episodes and access to my monthly editing the doom scroll newsletter <3Get access to cant not map which pre pins vintage stores all over the world to your maps >> www.cantnotshop.com
- Jul 18, 20262 min
114. *Preview* Allison's Archive, Fearless and Fun (Full Episode on Patreon Only)
In conversation with Allison Dickerman, founder of NYC based vintage store Allison's Archive on leaving her PR job to start her own business, the intuition and feeling that goes into her curation, admiring designers who weren’t afraid to have fun, missing the times when designers didn't try to appeal to everyone, Dsquared FW 2003, the constant surprises in sourcing, Vintage going from niche to mainstream, how archives have become cultural currency, the skate moss heel and so much more <3
- Jul 2, 202617 min
113. *Preview* Antoni & Alison, A Good Idea (Full Episode on Patreon)
In conversation with Antoni Burakowski, of Antoni and Alison on behalf of both Antoni and Alison! Antoni paints a vivid picture of the early 1980s in London, jumble sales on Brick Lane, performances by Divine, happy hour at Peppermint Park, always looking your best and going to Saint Martins College of Art — where him and Alison first met. We get into what brought them together, what led to their first collection, their principles, their design techniques, the slogan tees, being their own PR, pioneering digital printing on garments, making the perfect handbag, having a show about all the things they didn’t like, Alison wanting less, Antoni wanting more, what has kept their friendship and business partnership alive over 30 years, and so much more!
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